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AmaSonata

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AmaWaterways has carved a niche for itself as offering advanced design with a more active shore experience. AmaSonata, which launched in 2014, continues that philosophy. A key distinguishing feature is that most of its 81 cabins have two balconies, consisting of a French balcony (a sliding door that lets in light and air, but lacks an exterior platform); and an adjoining outside balcony that seats two. Even the non-balcony cabins are efficiently designed, attractive and relatively roomy. Public areas -- namely the dining room and the main lounge -- are light and airy and large enough that they never seem overly crowded. The vibe is relaxed. Onboard announcements are kept to a minimum, and they aren't broadcast into the cabins.

With the exception of several optional tours, shore excursions are included in the cruise price. So is the use of bicycles, wine at lunch and dinner, and Wi-Fi. And in an effort to appeal to more active cruisers, the line offers some strenuous options, like hiking and cycling excursions, in addition to the usual city walking tours. It also divides many of its outings into three levels of physical exertion, so you can join a group that suits your pace. In 2015, AmaWaterways partnered with the active travel company Backroads to offer supported biking and hiking tours on select cruises; these cruises are a real workout and definitely appeal to a younger demographic than you typically see in river cruising.

The food is excellent. AmaWaterways takes pride in its membership in the world's oldest international gastronomic society, Confrérie de la Chaîne de Rôtisseurs, and its commitment to fine dining shows. There's an emphasis on regional dishes, such as Vienna-style schnitzel in Austria and Hungarian goulash in Budapest.

Dining room and cabin service was friendly, efficient and generally spot-on. Our jolly waiter remembered our preferences and worked with the kitchen staff to accommodate the vegan at our table. When we told our cabin steward she needn't bother with the nightly turndown service -- but we'd appreciate the pillow chocolates -- she delivered a cupful the next morning.

Daytime wear is casual. Comfort is key, since most passengers are out on walking tours or cycling through the countryside. (Good walking shoes able to handle cobbled streets are a must.) Suggested dinner attire is "sophisticated casual" -- collared shirts and slacks for men, and dresses, skirts or dressy pants for women. Even for the weekly Captain's Dinner, a dressy affair on many cruises, the daily program noted guests were welcome to dress up, but it wasn't compulsory; men will be OK if they don't bring a jacket. However, shorts and sneakers aren't welcome in the dining room at dinner.


AmaSonata Inclusions

At least one daily shore excursion is included in the cruise fare. On our Danube cruise, options ranged from hourlong city walking tours, to group hikes and bike tours, to half- and full-day excursions in farther-flung locales, such as the Austrian Lake District and Salzburg. The ship's 25 bicycles are free for use on shore.

Regional wines and beer are served with lunch and dinner (and a bottle of sparkling wine is on ice by the smoked salmon at breakfast). Soft drinks are also free with meals. Bottled water is delivered daily to cabins. The free Wi-Fi is fast and reliable.

Gratis postcards are available at the front desk; they'll even stamp and mail them for you. Electrical adaptors, reading glasses, walking sticks, wheelchairs and shower chairs are also available for loan.

Shore Excursions

At least one shore excursion per port is included in the cruise price. Outings range from city walking tours led by local guides, to farther afield sojourns. On the Danube cruise, for instance, longer excursions included half- and full-day tours to Salzburg, Austria, and another to the medieval Czech city of Český Krumlov.

Some tours are divided into three activity levels -- gentle, regular and active. Ship-provided audio receivers are used on some tours.

AmaWaterways has added more strenuous pursuits to its excursion menu, including hiking and cycling tours. On our Danube cruise, options included hikes to hilltop castles in Passau, Germany, and Dürnstein, Austria.

Several optional tours are available at an added cost. On our sailing, they included a Strauss and Mozart concert and a visit to Schönbrunn Palace, both in Vienna. Several excursions, such as the "Apricots and Sweets" tour in Austria's Wachau Valley, accommodate a limited number of guests.

Local maps issued by the cruise line aren't adequate to guide you on in-depth exploring on your own. If you're touring solo or like to do your own thing, plan a stop at the tourist office, or bring a guidebook.

Daytime and Evening Entertainment

Staple onboard entertainment consists of a keyboard player who entertains in the AmaSonata Lounge at lunch, at teatime and after dinner. In some ports, outside entertainers come aboard. On our cruise, they included an Austrian duo performing Sound of Music song and dance numbers, and Hungarian folk dancers in Budapest. There's a dance floor, which saw some action on some nights.

Enrichment

Aside from a few port orientation talks given by the cruise director and a talk on life in Hungary under Communism, there weren't a lot of lectures. On our embarkation day in Vilshofen, Germany, local dancers and musicians entertained at an Oktoberfest-style event outside the ship. In the quaint Austrian town of Weißenkirchen, an after-dinner wine tasting at a historic wine pub gave guests the chance to meet the proprietor of a winery that's been in the family since 1754.


AmaSonata Bars and Lounges

A spacious main lounge, sweeping upper deck and a few smaller nooks tucked throughout the ship provide a variety of spots for conversation or quiet time.

AmaSonata Lounge (Violin Deck): This bright and airy room serves as the main onboard entertainment venue. It's decked out in bold floral patterns, and at its centre is a large ship's-bow-shaped buffet, where morning pastries, a light lunch, tea goodies and late-night snacks are served. Groupings of sofas, chairs and tables divide the space and provide plenty of room for conversation or reading. At one end is the 10-seat Strauss Bar. The bar menu is in euros. There's a varied tea selection and a coffee machine that dispenses espresso drinks at no charge.

A pianist entertains after dinner, at lunch and during tea. The small dance floor doubles as a performance space for outside entertainers.

Observation Lounge (Violin Deck, forward): The forward area of the main lounge sports floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows, hence its name. But it's really part of the main lounge.

Al Fresco Terrace (Violin Deck, forward): This compact outdoor area is furnished with patio dining tables for those who want to grab a light lunch or snack from the lounge and enjoy the view as the ship plies the river.

The Chef's Table (Violin Deck, aft): Though this is a dinner-only eatery, it's open during the day for passengers who want to play cards, socialize or just enjoy the view. There's a small bar; pick up the phone for service.

Pool Bar (Sun Deck): The ship's top-deck pool has a four-seat swim-up bar, though on our cruise, we never saw it open.


AmaSonata Outside Recreation

The Sun Deck is an open, inviting area that spans the length of AmaSonata's top deck. There's a small heated pool with seats on either side that allows you to comfortably submerge. At one end is a swim-up bar. Multiple tables for four invite guests to play cards, or just relax and soak up the sun. There also are lounge areas -- covered and uncovered. An oversized chess set beckons players. Tucked on the Lower Sun Deck in front of the navigation bridge is a massive wicker-like sofa and more chairs, along with additional tables for four. At the rear of the Sun Deck is a smoking area, the only onboard spot where smoking is allowed.

A running oval measures about 170 meters around, meaning you'd need 10 laps or so to log a mile. Because cabins are located directly below, guests are requested to refrain from jogging from 10 p.m. to 8 a.m.


AmaSonata Services

The front desk is in the elegant atrium lobby facing a round, glass lift. The cruise director and hotel manager have opposing desks on a mezzanine just above the front desk. There's no business centre, but passengers can use the printer to get airline boarding passes.

A small wood-panelled library tucked off the Strauss Bar is furnished with comfy sofas that face twin gas fireplaces. Daily news digests from the U.S., Canada and Great Britain can be picked up here, plus games such as Trivial Pursuit and Scrabble.

The ship's gift shop, also off the main lounge, tends more toward souvenir items (decorative beer steins, Christmas ornaments) than necessities you might have left at home.

Wi-Fi is free, and on our sailing, was reliable.

The spa consists of a single treatment room. Services are limited to basic 30- and 60-minute massages, including back, shoulder and neck; foot and leg; and full body and aromatherapy massages.

The spa's therapist also does duty as the beautician in the ship's single-chair salon.

The fitness centre isn't large, but it's light and inviting. It has two stationary bikes with touch screen entertainment that face a floor-to-ceiling window. A credenza holds an oversized bouquet of silk flowers, bottled water, lemon slices and a basket of fresh towels. Two treadmills are cleverly sunk slightly below floor level, allowing more head room for tall joggers. A compact machine enables a multi-muscle-group workout. Just run a fingertip over the dial set into the mirror in front of you to adjust the weight. Hand weights, floor mats and an exercise ball are also available.

Bicycles can be checked out for free in port.

The kitchen staff works hard to produce quality meals, and it shows. Breads (baked nightly on board) are delicious and varied. Soups are out of the ordinary, with concoctions like creamy asparagus with truffle foam. Dinner entrées include a choice of fish, meat and a vegetarian dish, along with always-available entrecote steak, salmon fillet, chicken breast and an entrée salad. Even the "light lunch" served daily in the AmaSonata Lounge offered lots of choices, including sandwiches, salads and a hot dish such as pizza or spinach lasagne.

Passengers' dietary restrictions are taken in stride. The vegan among us was satisfied with the array of fresh vegetables and salads. But the staff also presented her with a series of "surprise me" dishes of lentils, couscous and other grains. (And she loved the potato-pancake-like hash browns at breakfast.) A detailed list of 14 allergens, from fish to nuts, is listed on the back of the menu, and each dish is accompanied with a code alerting diners to those potential allergens. If you're determined to eat local and/or light, symbols on the menu steer you to items that fit the bill. At the Captain's welcome and farewell cocktail parties, waiters pass hot hors d'oeuvres.

Main Dining Room (Piano Deck): Tables for six, along with roomy banquets, are arranged around a central dark wood buffet station that's shaped like a ship's bow. (This design motif appears in the AmaSonata Lounge and elsewhere on the ship.) The large purple flower print on the carpet and the pink, orange and purple striped upholstery on the banquets lend a cheerfulness to the space. Oversized vases with silk flowers are set under the windows on either side of the room. Two semi-private dining rooms, dubbed "wine rooms," seat 10 each and flank the dining room's entrance. They're available on a first-come, first-served basis.

All meals are open seating. Breakfast and lunch are buffet-style, though hot items can be ordered off the menu. Dinner is a four-course affair, plus there's a cheese selection from the buffet. Meal times can vary slightly to accommodate shore excursions.

Breakfast is usually from 7 or 7:30 a.m. to 9 or 9:30 a.m. and features an omelette station, an abundance of fresh fruits, yogurt, cereal grains, nuts and a large selection of breads, rolls and pastries. Smoked salmon and accompaniments (including a bottle of sparkling wine on ice) is available from the buffet. Poached eggs, eggs Benedict, oatmeal, waffles and steak and eggs can be ordered off the menu.

Lunch is usually served around 12:30 p.m., depending on the shore excursion schedule. Diners help themselves to salads and appetizers from the buffet; there's also a cooking station turning out pasta, curries and other fare, depending on the day. Two soups are available, as are a choice of two or three order-off-the menu entrées, such as fish and chips and grilled minute steak. On our cruise, two themed lunches -- Bavarian and Hungarian -- gave a culinary nod to the passing countryside. Two dessert options are offered, along with fresh fruit. Steak and chicken sandwiches and fish burgers are always available from the menu.

Dinner, typically served at 7 p.m., is a four-course meal with a nightly "chef's recommendation" menu. Selections frequently reflect the surrounding region, like Hortobágyi palacsinta (a savoury Hungarian pancake) in Budapest, and a classic apple strudel in Vienna. Nightly entrées feature a meat selection (glazed short ribs, roasted lamb); fish (sautéed butterfish, grilled river trout) and a vegetarian option (spinach quiche, stuffed eggplant). Appetizers range from basic mixed green salads to elaborate constructions like one that combined whisky-flavoured salmon, smoked salmon, basil cream cheese, tuna rillettes and cauliflower, beetroot and bulgur. The dedicated soup maker in the kitchen flexes creative muscle with creations like parsnips cream soup with oyster mushrooms. Appetizers and soups on the nightly menu also have vegetarian options.

Two decadent dessert selections (rum-flavoured chocolate cake with mango sorbet; chocolate mousse with caramel-chocolate sauce) are offered in addition to fresh fruit and a selection of European cheeses.

A first-night welcome dinner and a farewell dinner on the cruise's penultimate night adds an amuse-bouche and a mid-meal sorbet and sparkling wine palate cleanser. There's also a pre-dinner cocktail reception with gratis wine and beer and hot hors d'oeuvres on both those occasions.

A regional red and white wine is served with lunch and dinner. On our cruise, varietals included citrusy Grüner Veltliner from Austria, and full-bodied cabernet sauvignon from Hungary. A California chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon also are available daily. And at the weekly French-accented Chaîne des Rôtisseurs dinner, which celebrates AmaWaterway's membership in the gastronomic society, waiters pour wines from France.

Other complimentary beverages include beer, soft drinks, coffee, tea and sparkling water.

The Chef's Table (Violin Deck): Reservations are required for this intimate 28-seat restaurant, although there aren't any tables for two so it's not a date night. Diners can take in the view via the room's floor-to-ceiling windows at the rear of the ship, and a glassed-in workspace allows them to watch some of the food prep in action. The eatery serves a five-course tasting menu. (The nightly menu doesn't change during the cruise.) On our cruise, the meal started with marinated heirloom tomato, watermelon and caramelized goat cheese, followed by a marinated seafood concoction paired with apple, beetroot and celery salad. Main courses were grilled pike perch with spinach and crawfish; porcini ravioli; and Japanese-style glazed short ribs with cauliflower mash, quinoa and broccoli. For dessert, a trifecta of chocolate truffle cake, brûlée cheesecake and vanilla ice cream was served. And for those not yet sated, there was fresh fruit and cheese.

Tip: Book a table here on a night when the ship is docked in a city, for dinner with a view.

AmaSonata Lounge (Violin Deck): For early risers, pastries are set out from around 6:30 to 7:30 a.m. They reappear from 9:30 to 10:30 a.m. for late risers. Cruisers who want a light lunch can help themselves to the lounge's central buffet. (Times vary, depending on the excursion schedule.) Fare includes cold cuts for make-your-own sandwiches, salads, soup and a hot dish or two from the daily menu, such as Monte Cristo sandwiches and spinach lasagne.

A daily tea service is offered in the space from 4 to 5 p.m., with tea sandwiches (cucumber, Parma ham) and pastries (mini eclairs, lemon cake). A special gluten-free section of sandwiches and cookies are set out on the lounge's bar.

Late-night snacks, like chicken wings, sausages and sea salt chips, appear at 10:30 p.m. And there's always a selection of cookies, fresh fruit, hot and iced tea, and espresso drinks dispensed from a coffee machine.

AmaSonata does not offer room service.

Staterooms are decorated in restful shades of teal, with tangerine and sage accents. The ship's 84 cabins come in nine categories, ranging from large rooms classified as suites with French and outside balconies, to fixed-window cabins on the lower deck.

All are equipped with flat-screen TV, mini-bar, one U.S. 110-volt outlet (the others require European plugs so having an adaptor is key); robes and slippers; hair dryer and umbrella. Queen-sized beds can be configured as twins. Marble vanity desks conceal the mini-bar and contain small drawers and shelves. Roomy closets with upper and lower racks accommodate hanging apparel. An adjoining closet contains five deep shelves for storing clothes and other belongings. There's a small safe inside (though not large enough for a laptop); and extra blankets. Suitcases can be stowed under the bed. The ship has no adjoining cabins.

The on-demand entertainment system enables internet access (though streaming media and downloading attachments isn't an option). There are 25 channels available (including multiple news and sports stations, plus HBO and the Sundance Channel), though many never got reception on our sailing. A roster of 29 in-room movies included recent releases.

Bathroom size varies according to cabin type, but all have roomy showers; storage space that ranges from generous to adequate; marble-topped vanity and shelf; and glass shower stalls with double-headed showers that drew raves. A and B cabin bathrooms have a window that looks into the bedroom, drawing natural light from beyond. A privacy switch turns the window an opaque white. Bath amenities include Hydro Basics lotion, shampoo, conditioner and body wash, plus cotton pads and cotton-tipped swabs.

Riverview: The 17 cabins on the Piano Deck (Deck 1) measure 160 square feet. Double windows bring in natural light. Tucked below them is a small seating area with two chairs and a cocktail table. A small marble-topped vanity holds the TV. Above it is a small cabinet with a safe. The mini-bar is tucked in a cabinet below. Bathrooms in these and the French Balcony cabins are a bit of a squeeze, with a single small sink. Note: The lift doesn't access the Piano Deck.

French Balcony: At 170 square feet, the 16 cabins with French balconies (i.e., a sliding-glass door that opens, but has no physical balcony) pick up some space in the seating area and the glass door creates an illusion of more room. They're on the Cello Deck (Deck 2) and the Violin Deck (Deck 3).

Double Balcony: The 49 double-balcony cabins range from 210 to 235 square feet. The ship's sole wheelchair-accessible cabin, also in this category, measures 290 square feet. Bathrooms are roomy with double sinks and generous under-sink storage. The weather on our cruise didn't invite sitting outside much, but when conditions cleared and warmed, the compact balcony was a peaceful spot from which to watch the milky brown waters of the Danube flow by.

Suite: Three 300-square-foot suites consist of a single room, with a sleeping alcove with a flat-screen TV attached to a wall across from the bed. A separate seating area accommodates two armchairs and a large round coffee table. A marble-topped vanity is equipped with a laptop and a high-backed upholstered chair. Suites come with complimentary laundry service, an in-room coffee maker and mini-bar stocked with soft drinks. Bathrooms are spacious, with large, double sinks, deep bathtub and a separate glass shower.

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