Lower Danube Discovery with Vienna

The word on Bucharest is that it's ugly, gritty, grimy -- and parts of it are. But don't make do with first impressions. As our guide aptly put it: "New-old-beautiful-ugly. This is what Bucharest is."

Energetic, hectic and just two decades out of Communist rule, this textured capital city of 2.2 million people is an acquired taste, and it's still in the process of defining itself. Just as Romania has been touted as the New Italy, Bucharest is being hailed as a sophisticated but less pricey alternative to Budapest and Belgrade.

The overarching signature of Bucharest today is the intersection of Communism and capitalism: Buses carrying tourists routinely pull up to the massive Palace of Parliament, built by Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceausescu as a tribute to himself. (More than one-sixth of the city was levelled to accommodate his indulgence.) The endless grey blocks of apartments that rose during Communist times are still in evidence, but so are outlets for Ferrari and Maserati, Hard Rock Cafe, ING, Starbucks and McDonald's. And the national sense of humour that Romanians quietly relied upon to help them survive Ceausescu's dictatorship is out in the open now. Locals, for instance, call the Judicial Ministry "the laundry": where politicians go in dirty and come out clean.

Located between the Carpathian foothills and the Danube River, Bucharest in its golden age -- the late 19th and early 20th centuries -- was known throughout Europe as "Little Paris." Royals ruled at the time, and the city was famous for its elegant architecture, grand thoroughfares and cultural elite. There are still some gorgeous neo-Classical buildings that date back to Bucharest's heyday, but World War II bombings and two earthquakes altered much of the skyline.

A member of the European Union since 2007, modern-day Bucharest is trying hard to regain its fallen stature as a European capital. In a recent travel piece in The Guardian, the British newspaper calls Bucharest "Paris eaten then spat out." Get real. Bucharestians make no apologies for their city -- and they shouldn't. Just like its residents, it's a place with a big personality and a huge heart.

With its elegant, historic city centre, emerging cafe society, architectural high points and proximity to lovely Transylvania, Bucharest has a lot to offer tourists. That is why many companies book their Danube River cruise passengers on Bucharest (and nearby Transylvania) pre- or post-trips, even though passengers, depending on their itineraries, will embark or disembark their river ships in Ruse, Bulgaria, a few hours away. Buses transport them between Bucharest and the Danube. Ruse, for its part, has little to recommend it.

The Danube Delta was created over the past 5,000 years and before that it was a gulf of the Black Sea. The three branches of the Danube River, Chilia, Sulina and Sfantu Gheorghe (Saint George), by a network of channels, brooks and ponds. Here you will find floating islets covered by rush and reed, rainforest-like lianas, lakes with muddy depths and surfaces carpeted by water lilies. There are countless pelicans and flocks of cormorants and moor hens. The Danube Delta is listed as a UNESCO Reservation of the Biosphere because of its variety of ecosystems. There are 16 strictly protected areas in which no economic activity is allowed, where tourist activities are permitted as long as the environment is protected. It hosts over 1,200 varieties of plants, 300 species of birds, being the richest ornithological fauna on the continent, as well as 45 freshwater fish species in its numerous lakes and marshes. This is the place where millions of birds from different places of Earth (European, Asian, African, Mediterranean) come to lay their eggs. The largest town, at the entrance of the delta is Tulcea. From Tulcea there are ferry services into the delta. Sulina and Sfantu Gheorghe are smaller towns, lying at the end of the Danube, on the Black Sea-coast. Coral is a village deep in the Delta.

Silistra is a port city of northeastern Bulgaria, lying on the southern side of the lower Danube at the country's border with Romania. Sights include the Medzhit Tabiya - a fortress dating back to 1841-1853 with an archaeological exposition, and St. Peter and Paul Church (1862) and the Silistra Tomb, a late antiquity Thracian vaulted sepulchre dating back to the 4th century decorated with a rich mural painting. The Romans built a fortress in 29 AD on the site of an earlier Celtic settlement and kept its name, Durostorum (or Dorostorum). It became an important military centre of Moesia and grew into a city at the time of Marcus Aurelius. In 388, Durostorum became the seat of a Christian bishopric and a centre of Christianity in the region. After the Roman Empire was split, the town became part of the Byzantine Empire and later the Ottoman Empire.

Visiting Rousse in Bulgaria offers a charming blend of history and modernity. Explore its elegant architecture, like the iconic Monument to Liberty, and immerse yourself in the vibrant cultural scene. Sample local cuisine at quaint cafes, and don't miss strolling along the picturesque Danube River promenade for a memorable experience.

Vidin is located in the extreme north-western Bulgaria, on the River Danube. The 14th century Fortress of Baba Vida has beautiful towers, thick walls and is well-preserved. It has lovely tranquil riverside walks. The churches of St. Panteleimon and St. Petka have fine murals. An agricultural and trade centre, Vidin has a fertile hinterland renowned for its wines and is the site of an annual fair. Vidin occupies the site of an old Celtic settlement, Dunonia founded in the 3rd century BC and fortified by the Romans as Bononia. Later (1185-1396), the town was known as Bdin, and in 1396 the Vidin kingdom fell to the Turks. They ruled it until 1878 except for a period of Austrian occupation from 1683 to 1690.

Belgrade is the capital city of Serbia and it lies at the meeting of the Danube and Sava rivers. Sights in the city include the Cathedral of St. Michael, or Saborna Crkva, built in 1837 and the old fortress of Kalemegdan on the headland, now a historical monument and its garden, from there you can seen a view of the plain across the Sava and the Danube. There are many museums and galleries, of which the oldest, the National Museum (Narodni Muzej), was founded in 1844. The artists' quarter Skadarlija is also well worth a visit. There is evidence of Stone Age settlements in the area. Notable are the excavations in Carasija near Ripanj where a statuette of a seated woman was found - one of the oldest pieces of sculpture in the world. Also the remains of an 8,000-year old settlement was discovered in Lepenski Vir with unique stone figures which resemble a fish with a human head and measure up to half a metre - these can be seen in the National Museum. The city grew up around an ancient fortress encompassed on three sides by the Sava and the Danube. Ruled by the Franks and the Bulgars, in the 11th century it became a frontier town of Byzantium. In 1402 Stephen Lazarevic made it the capital of Serbia but the Ottoman Turks captured the city in 1440 and it remained in their hands except for three periods of occupation by the Austrians. In 1921 Belgrade became the capital of Yugoslavia.

Whilst not as well-known as Belgrade, Serbia's second city offers an enormous amount for the visitor. Packed with pleasant pedestrianised streets and charming squares with bars & cafes, the city also offers many museums, galleries and historical landmarks. The city also hosts the annual EXIT Festival, one of the biggest music festivals in Europe.

The historic city of Osijek (Osijekis) is the capital of the Slavonia region with a history dating back to Neolithic times. Explore the oldest part of the city, Tvrdja, a fascinating mix of Baroque houses, forts and churches. An 8th century Baroque citadel lies in the heart of the town. Its main central Holy Trinity Square is closed on the north by the building of the Military Command, on the west there is the Main Guard building and on the east is the Magistrate building which houses the Museum of Slavonia. Other sights include the promenade along the Drava ("promenade"), and the suspension pedestrian bridge across the Drava river. Nearby is the nature park of Kopacki Rit, one of the largest andmost attractive preserved wetlands in Europe. The Roman emperor Hadrian raised the old settlement of Mursa to a colony in 131. After that, Mursa had a turbulent history, with several decisive battles that took place here (among which the Battle of Mursa Major in 351 and the battle between Aureolus and Ingenuus in 260), deciding the destiny of the whole region. After their migration, the Croats made a settlement near the ruins of Mursa, giving it its present name, Osijek. Life was thriving here in the Middle Ages, but the city was sacked and destroyed by the Ottoman Empire in 1526. The Turks rebuilt it in oriental style. Osijek was restored to western rule in 1687 it was occupied by the Habsburg Empire who built a new fortress known as Tvrda. Between 1712 and 1721.

Mohács is a picturesque town located in southern Hungary, renowned for its rich history, cultural heritage, and vibrant festivals. Mohács offers visitors a blend of historic architecture, scenic landscapes, and traditional Hungarian hospitality on the Danube River's banks.

One of the most famous events in Mohács is the annual Busó Festival, a UNESCO-recognized cultural heritage celebration held in late winter. During the festival, locals dress in traditional Busó masks and costumes, parading through the streets to scare away the winter spirits and welcome the arrival of spring. The festival features lively music, dance performances, and street food stalls, making it a must-see event for visitors to Mohács.

Take time to explore Mohács's fascinating past, with its historic landmarks and archaeological sites. Visit the Mohács Castle, a medieval fortress perched on a hill overlooking the town, explore its well-preserved walls and towers and discover the ruins of ancient Roman settlements scattered throughout the area.

Kalocsa is central Hungary, on a terrace overlooking the River Danube and surrounded by the Sarkoz swamps. Kalocsa has perhaps the richest folk art in all Hungary; the motifs painted by the town's "writing women" are distinguished by the inventiveness of the design and colour. These motifs are also reproduced in much-sought-after embroidery work, which is exported. The House of Folk Art and Károly Visky Museums display local work and the bishop's palace displays art treasures. It was one of the bishoprics founded by the first king of Hungary, Stephen I, and was a thriving medieval town until it was taken by the Turks, rising again in the 19th century as an agricultural centre.

Divided by the Danube River, the Hungarian capital of Budapest -- known as the "Pearl of the Danube"-- is a city of two distinct halves. The hilly Buda side is topped by the impressive Royal Palace, home to several museums and charming cobbled streets lined with shops and houses that date to medieval times. On the busier Pest bank, there are grand sights like the parliament building, opera house and statue-lined Heroes' Square, plus fantastic shopping streets, such as Andrassy Avenue, Budapest's grand central boulevard. Several bridges cross the river, but the best one to use is the historic Chain Bridge, which is the oldest. The great thing about Budapest, a mainstay on most Danube River cruise itineraries, is it's compact, so you can pack plenty into a short break. The majority of sights are within walking distance or easily reached on the efficient tram and underground network. Coffee shops are a big thing. At one time, there were more than 400 in Budapest, so take time out to join locals for a caffeine boost and a slice of yummy cream cake. Budapest is also the world's only capital city to boast more than 80 active thermal springs and wells; soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters is an authentic experience. Szechenyi is the largest, with indoor and outdoor pools, and Gellert is famous for its opulent -- and mostly original -- architecture. Many river cruise operators offer trips to the baths as an excursion option. Budapest's history dates to the third century, when Celtic warriors occupied the area. Study the place a bit, and you'll find yourself wondering: Who didn't invade the city? The Romans, Magyars, Mongols, Ottoman Turks, Austrians, Germans and Soviets have all played starring roles in Budapest's longstanding municipal drama. The city has been destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries -- part of the reason for its eclectic architecture, which includes everything from neo-Classical to Stalinist utilitarian. Its current skyline reflects the building programs and styles of the turn of the 20th century. As Claudio Magris wrote in his travel memoir, "Danube," "Budapest is the loveliest city on the Danube. It has a crafty way of being its own stage-set."

Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, is an up-and-coming cruise port along the Danube River. It borders both Austria and Hungary, and it's located just miles from the capital cities of Vienna, Austria, and Prague, Czech Republic.

Divided by the Danube River, the Hungarian capital of Budapest -- known as the "Pearl of the Danube"-- is a city of two distinct halves. The hilly Buda side is topped by the impressive Royal Palace, home to several museums and charming cobbled streets lined with shops and houses that date to medieval times. On the busier Pest bank, there are grand sights like the parliament building, opera house and statue-lined Heroes' Square, plus fantastic shopping streets, such as Andrassy Avenue, Budapest's grand central boulevard. Several bridges cross the river, but the best one to use is the historic Chain Bridge, which is the oldest. The great thing about Budapest, a mainstay on most Danube River cruise itineraries, is it's compact, so you can pack plenty into a short break. The majority of sights are within walking distance or easily reached on the efficient tram and underground network. Coffee shops are a big thing. At one time, there were more than 400 in Budapest, so take time out to join locals for a caffeine boost and a slice of yummy cream cake. Budapest is also the world's only capital city to boast more than 80 active thermal springs and wells; soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters is an authentic experience. Szechenyi is the largest, with indoor and outdoor pools, and Gellert is famous for its opulent -- and mostly original -- architecture. Many river cruise operators offer trips to the baths as an excursion option. Budapest's history dates to the third century, when Celtic warriors occupied the area. Study the place a bit, and you'll find yourself wondering: Who didn't invade the city? The Romans, Magyars, Mongols, Ottoman Turks, Austrians, Germans and Soviets have all played starring roles in Budapest's longstanding municipal drama. The city has been destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries -- part of the reason for its eclectic architecture, which includes everything from neo-Classical to Stalinist utilitarian. Its current skyline reflects the building programs and styles of the turn of the 20th century. As Claudio Magris wrote in his travel memoir, "Danube," "Budapest is the loveliest city on the Danube. It has a crafty way of being its own stage-set."

Divided by the Danube River, the Hungarian capital of Budapest -- known as the "Pearl of the Danube"-- is a city of two distinct halves. The hilly Buda side is topped by the impressive Royal Palace, home to several museums and charming cobbled streets lined with shops and houses that date to medieval times. On the busier Pest bank, there are grand sights like the parliament building, opera house and statue-lined Heroes' Square, plus fantastic shopping streets, such as Andrassy Avenue, Budapest's grand central boulevard. Several bridges cross the river, but the best one to use is the historic Chain Bridge, which is the oldest. The great thing about Budapest, a mainstay on most Danube River cruise itineraries, is it's compact, so you can pack plenty into a short break. The majority of sights are within walking distance or easily reached on the efficient tram and underground network. Coffee shops are a big thing. At one time, there were more than 400 in Budapest, so take time out to join locals for a caffeine boost and a slice of yummy cream cake. Budapest is also the world's only capital city to boast more than 80 active thermal springs and wells; soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters is an authentic experience. Szechenyi is the largest, with indoor and outdoor pools, and Gellert is famous for its opulent -- and mostly original -- architecture. Many river cruise operators offer trips to the baths as an excursion option. Budapest's history dates to the third century, when Celtic warriors occupied the area. Study the place a bit, and you'll find yourself wondering: Who didn't invade the city? The Romans, Magyars, Mongols, Ottoman Turks, Austrians, Germans and Soviets have all played starring roles in Budapest's longstanding municipal drama. The city has been destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries -- part of the reason for its eclectic architecture, which includes everything from neo-Classical to Stalinist utilitarian. Its current skyline reflects the building programs and styles of the turn of the 20th century. As Claudio Magris wrote in his travel memoir, "Danube," "Budapest is the loveliest city on the Danube. It has a crafty way of being its own stage-set."

Visitors come to Vienna with high expectations of lavish palaces, ornamental parks, cakes piled high with whipped cream and the strain of Strauss waltzes. They're rarely disappointed; this is a city that trades on its glorious past, revelling in its heyday, when Gustav Mahler was conducting the Vienna Philharmonic, Sigmund Freud was inventing psychoanalysis and the coffee houses were abuzz with the banter of middle-class intellectuals.

Yet, as much as it lives in the past, Vienna has hauled itself into the present with elegance and style. Visitors will discover a compact but diverse, multicultural city, with a thriving art and design scene, some truly fabulous shopping, superb contemporary art collections, and acres of gorgeous parks and gardens. Here, you'll find a happy devotion to the good life, whether it's sipping a cocktail at one of the hip bars on the Danube Canal or the gemutlichkeit (the Austrian term for "cosiness") of tasting wines grown on the hills around the city in a traditional pub garden in the village of Grinzing.

Because most of the big attractions are around or inside the Ringstrasse, the circular boulevard that encloses the first district, or city centre, Vienna is easy to explore. In fact, you could spend days in the first district alone, shopping on the elegant Karntnerstrasse, exploring St. Stephen's Cathedral and countless other Baroque churches, devoting time to galleries and museums and immersing yourself in the famous coffee culture.

The many river cruise lines that call on the city provide a mere snapshot of this thriving centre of European culture with little deviation from the very well-trodden tourist trail. But Vienna caters to a diverse range of interests, and the good news is that if you come back for more, or want to explore it alone, the city is a snap to navigate independently.

Visitors come to Vienna with high expectations of lavish palaces, ornamental parks, cakes piled high with whipped cream and the strain of Strauss waltzes. They're rarely disappointed; this is a city that trades on its glorious past, revelling in its heyday, when Gustav Mahler was conducting the Vienna Philharmonic, Sigmund Freud was inventing psychoanalysis and the coffee houses were abuzz with the banter of middle-class intellectuals.

Yet, as much as it lives in the past, Vienna has hauled itself into the present with elegance and style. Visitors will discover a compact but diverse, multicultural city, with a thriving art and design scene, some truly fabulous shopping, superb contemporary art collections, and acres of gorgeous parks and gardens. Here, you'll find a happy devotion to the good life, whether it's sipping a cocktail at one of the hip bars on the Danube Canal or the gemutlichkeit (the Austrian term for "cosiness") of tasting wines grown on the hills around the city in a traditional pub garden in the village of Grinzing.

Because most of the big attractions are around or inside the Ringstrasse, the circular boulevard that encloses the first district, or city centre, Vienna is easy to explore. In fact, you could spend days in the first district alone, shopping on the elegant Karntnerstrasse, exploring St. Stephen's Cathedral and countless other Baroque churches, devoting time to galleries and museums and immersing yourself in the famous coffee culture.

The many river cruise lines that call on the city provide a mere snapshot of this thriving centre of European culture with little deviation from the very well-trodden tourist trail. But Vienna caters to a diverse range of interests, and the good news is that if you come back for more, or want to explore it alone, the city is a snap to navigate independently.